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How to cook a moose : a culinary memoir /

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Format: Book
Language: English
Published: Islandport Press, 2015
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Inspired by her new home in New England and the slow food movement re-energizing sustainable farming, Kate Christensen picks up where she left off in her last memoir, Blue Plate Special . In an ode to How to Cook a Wolf , M.F.K. Fisher's classic culinary guide about surviving poverty and war with grace, Christensen creates a tempting, modern stew that will delight readers as only she can, using the magic ingredients of true love, personal appetite, humor, history, and original recipes.

Christensen also examines the dilemma of food scarcity in a time of possible climate collapse, turning to her own backyard for long-term solutions. Taking tips from the lives and landscapes of the farmers, fishermen, hunters, and families who live in this grueling northern climate and still produce abundant, healthful food, she retraces the histories of staple ingredients native to the region and explores what it's like to live, love, and cook on the edge.


Editor's Notep. ix
Introduction: Cooking and Eating at the End of the Worldp. 1
Chapter 1Landing in New Englandp. 8
Pasta with Pea Saucep. 18
Chicken à la Dingp. 21
Chapter 2My First Moose and the Yankee Palazzop. 23
Buckwheat Blini with Créme Fraîche and Salmon Roep. 39
Wicked-Good Lamb Burgersp. 43
Chapter 3A Tale of Two Kitchensp. 45
Harissa Haddockp. 61
Soup Kitchen Stir-Fryp. 69
Chapter 4A Land of All Seasonsp. 71
Popcorn Cockles and Asparagus with Fenugreek Sauce and Mango Salsap. 86
Spite & Malice Pizzap. 95
Chapter 5Mock Turtle Soup and Terroirp. 99
Mock Turtle Soupp. 111
Erin French's Fried Oysters with Beetroot Slaw and Horseradish Aiolip. 114
Chapter 6Literary Lobster and Clam Condomsp. 124
Newcomer's Clam Chowderp. 135
Lobster Thermidorp. 143
Chapter 7Maple, Mutton, and Moose Mufflesp. 145
Maple Oatmealp. 150
Moose Bourguignonp. 153
Jellied Moose Nosep. 159
Chapter 8The Essential Blueberry and the Wild Mushroomp. 165
Blueberries with Lemon Curd a la Millicentp. 173
Black Trumpet Mushrooms with Chicken Thighs and Mustard Saucep. 182
Chapter 9The Great Disappearing Codfish and the Perfect Oysterp. 184
New England Fish Soupp. 187
Classic New England Oyster Dressing or Stuffingp. 191
Chapter 10Holy Donuts, Wholesome Potatoes, and Bean Holesp. 200
Potato Saladp. 215
Arizona Native's Yankee Farm Stand Chilip. 219
Brown Breadp. 226
Chapter 11Rock Farmers and Stone Soupp. 228
Barbara Damrosch's Chicken Stew with Horseradish Creamp. 238
KJ Grow's Pork Breakfast Sausage Pattiesp. 256
Black Kettle Farm Vegetable Stewp. 258
Chapter 11Into the Futurep. 259
Newfoundland Hunter's Moose jerkyp. 280
Ladleah Dunn's Moose Meatballs avec Black Trumpetsp. 282
Midcoast Tamale Piep. 287
Bibliography and Further Readingp. 288
Acknowledgmentsp. 291
About the Authorp. 292

Review by Booklist Review

When Christensen follows her new beau to New England to put down roots, she's leery of leaving her New York life behind. She'd been happy in the city, a food writer with lots of friends, a life she detailed in an earlier memoir. But once ensconced in his New Hampshire farmhouse, Christensen soon discovers the joys of rural living. She learns to forage mushrooms, tap maple trees, and longs to try the delicacy known as moose muffle the snout and upper lip of Maine's signature beast. Along the way, she takes side trips into Maine history, including those of oysters and lobstering. The couple eventually buys a house in Portland, and Christensen gives us a tour of the region's restaurants and more interesting residents, including a founder of the back-to-the-land movement and various small-scale producers. Some of these sections are more interesting than others, and Christensen sometimes comes across as a reverse snob. Every good salad is simple, every good meal unpretentious, every good Mainer authentic or down to earth. But readers partial to this kind of regional travelogue will find it a treat.--Weber, Lynn Copyright 2015 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Library Journal Review

Maine and its culinary abundance are spotlighted in this memoir from PEN/Faulkner Award-winning novelist Christensen (The Astral). A former New Yorker, the author resettles in New England, splitting her time between Portland, ME, and a farmhouse in New Hampshire. Her new home features both regional and seasonal fare: blueberries, lobster, potatoes, moose, and more get their due. Christensen, her husband, and their dog share what seems an idyllic existence, but Maine has its difficulties, and a chapter on working at a soup kitchen is a particular highlight. The author describes her blind spots, which render her all the more human-she sometimes trumpets Maine by putting down New York City and sees no contradiction in extolling local eating while quaffing European wines instead of products from local breweries, distilleries, cideries, or wineries. Recipes punctuate the chapters effectively. -VERDICT An engaging book that uses a love of food and place to frame Christensen's story of a significant move later in life. Highly recommended for fans of memoirs and of food writing.-Peter -Hepburn, Coll. of the Canyons Lib., Santa Clarita, CA © Copyright 2015. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

Kate Christensen is the author of five novels and one memoir. Her novel, The Great Man, appeared on the New York Times Bestseller list and won her the 2008 Pen/Faulkner Award for fiction. Her previous novels are In the Drink (1999), Jeremy Thrane (2001), and The Epicure's Lament (2004). Her fifth novel, Trouble (2009), was released in paperback by Vintage/Anchor in June 2010. Her sixth novel, The Astral, was published in hardcover by Doubleday in June 2011. Her most recent book, "Blue Plate Special: An Autobiography of My Appetites," was published in July 2013 by Doubleday. She is a graduate of Reed College and the Iowa Writers Workshop. Her essays, articles, reviews, and stories have appeared in many anthologies and periodicals, including The New York Times Book Review, O, the Oprah Magazine, Gilt Taste, Bookforum, Elle, The Wall Street Journal, Tin House, The Wilson Quarterly, The B&N Review, and Fivechapters.com. Her food-related blog, "don't let it bring you down," can be accessed at katechristensen.wordpress.com.

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